Chicago, IL

MODA 2023 Fashion Show


DURATION: September 2021 - March 2023 (6.5 months)

ROLE: Junior Design Director, Designer


Conceptualization


I started with preliminary sketches and a moodboard to capture certain themes I wanted to highlight and explore. Namely, I wanted to capture androgynous silhouettes with a focus on natural movement and identity.
 

Drafting


I first start by making a bodice using the Katinka Method. I then do fittings for the bodice to ensure the balance, proportions, and fit are accurate. Here are a couple of images of the process.


Patterning


I then create patterns derivative from the bodice. I then make a draft with bleached muslin of the piece with the newly made pattern and do fittings before using the actual textiles. After the fitting, I adjust the pattern to fit to any edits I need to make and make another draft, reiterating on the original. 

Original Bodice 
Bodice turned into a vest pattern




Textiles


Throughout the ideation phase of my design process, I keep an eye out for textiles. I also make sure to visit fabric stores at least a handful of times while making drafts. Materiality plays a huge part in informing the form of the design. Stiff fabrics naturally suggest certain forms that may oppose flowy ones, for instance. 

For this collection, I primarily used wool gabardine, chiffon, muslin, ribbed knit, rayon, canvas, among others. 
©2023 William Hu. All rights reserved.